Iwued  November  27, 1907. 

S.  DEPARTMENT   OF   AGRICULTURE. 

OFFICE  OF  EXPERIMENT  STATIONS— FARMERS'  INSTITUTE  LEOTURJJ  8. 

.  TRUE,  Director. 


SYLLABUS 

OF 

ILLUSTRATED  LECTURE 

ON 

FARM  ARCHITECTURE. 


BY 


ELMINA  T.  WILSON,  C.  E., 

Formerly  Assistant  Professor  of  Civil  Engineering,  Iowa  State  College. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE, 

1907. 


1039  Ishiu.'<i  November  27, 1900. 

U.  S.  DEPARTMENT   OF   AGRICULTURE. 

OFFICE  OF  EXPERIMENT  STATIONS— FARMERS'  INSTITUTE  LECTURE  8. 

A.   C.  TRUE,   Director. 


SYLLABUS 

OF 

ILLUSTRATED  LECTURE 

ON 

FARM  ARCHITECTURE. 


BY 


ELMINA  T.  WILSON,  C.  E., 

Formerly  Assistant  Professor  of  Civil  Engineering,  Iowa  State  College. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT     PRINTING     OFFICE. 

1907. 


PRI:I;AT<)RY  NOTE 


This  syllabus  of  a  lecture  upon  farm  architecture!  by  Elmina  T. 
Wilson,  C.  E.,  formerly  assist  ant  professor  of  civil  engineering,  Iowa 
State  College,  is  accompanied  by  48  views  illustrating  this  topic 
The  sjdlabus  and  views  have  been  prepared  for  the  purpose  of  aiding 
farmers'  institute  lecturers  in  their  presentation  of  this  subject 
before  institute  audiences. 

The  numbers  in  the  margins  of  the  pages  of  the  syllabus  refer  to 
similar  numbers  on  the  lantern  slides  and  to  their  legends  as  given 
in  the  Appendix;  those  in  the  body  of  the  text  refer  to  the  list  of 
authorities  and  references,  page  19. 

In  order  that  those  using  the  lecture  may  have  opportunity  to 
fully  acquaint  themselves  with  the  subject,  references  to  its  recent 
literature  are  given  in  the  Appendix. 

John  Hamilton. 
Fanners  Institute  Specialist. 

Recommended  for  publication. 
A.  C.  True,  Director. 

Publication  authorized. 

James  Wilson,  Secretary  of  Agriculture. 

Washington,  D.  C,  August  28,  1907. 


FARM  ARCHITECTURE. 


By  Elmina  T.  Wilson,  C.  E. 


INTRODUCTION. 


To  the  construction  of  buildings  a  civilized  community  View- 
devotes  a  very  large  share  of  its  available  resources,  and  once 
constructed  these  buildings  exert  a  constant  influence  on  all 
who  dwell  in  and  about  them.  Whatever  may  be  the  charac- 
ter of  public  buildings,  provided  for  occasional  visitations 
by  the  people,  the  good  or  bad  character  of  the  homes  where 
people  eat,  rest,  and  sleep  may  be  said  to  practically  deter- 
mine the  character  and  happiness  of  their  occupants.  (Ref. 
1,  p.  10.°) 

Health  and  happiness  in  the  home  are  not  marketable  com- 
modities, but  profit  would  nevertheless  result  indirectly  from 
such  household  investment  as  would  provide  healthier  condi- 
tions and  insure  a  healthier  population.  Increased  vitality 
means  not  only  diminished  doctor  bills  but  increased  use- 
fulness. 

There  is  no  attempt  to  say  that  these  are  the  "best"  houses; 
they  are  houses  that  seemed  representative  and  typical  of 
American  country-house  building.  These  houses  are  safe 
models  and  guides  for  prospective  builders.  While  the  price 
varies,  each  house  has  strong  and  absolutely  simple  main  lines. 
The  attempt  has  not  been  made  to  make  a  wide  display  in  the 
matter  of  expense,  but  rather  to  obtain  tasteful  architecture 
at  the  minimum  expense. 

Within  the  restriction  imposed  by  money  available  for 
building,  there  is  little  opportunity  for  ornament  and  enrich- 
ment. Our  houses  must  depend  for  their  beauty  upon  graceful 
proportions,  well-grouped  windows,  good  color,  and  textures. 
No  building,  unless  well  proportioned,  can  be  saved  by  orna- 
mentation. Jig-saw  ornament,  mill-made  brackets,  cornices, 
moldings  and  railings,  tower  and  cupola  tacked  to  the  house 
corner,  where  they  mean  nothing  decoratively  and  serve  no 
useful  purpose,  should  be  avoided. 

aSee  list  of  references,  p.  19. 
(3) 


PLASTER  HOUSES. 

•**■  Exterior  cement  plaster  is  a  most  promising  substitute  for 
wood.  It  furnishes  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  backgrounds 
for  vines  and  shrubs,  and  is  in  harmony  with  almost  any  nat- 
ural setting.  This  material  offers  an  inexpensive  exterior  sur- 
facing when  compared  to  brick  or  stone,  and  will  make  a  more 
durable,  a  warmer,  and  more  attractive  exterior  than  clap- 
boards or  shingles,  although  it  will  cost  more  than  these. 
Three  coats  of  plaster  and  the  labor  of  application  are  more 
expensive  to  put  on  than  clapboards  or  shingles,  but  the  con- 
stant painting  required  by  the  wooden  exteriors  will  help  to 
equalize  the  cost.  Success  depends  upon  first-class  work- 
manship and  materials.     (Ref.  2,  p.  58.) 

Formerly  most  of  the  exterior  plaster  work  was  used  in  con- 
nection with  half-timber  construction  or  on  gables,  but  this 

1  house  shows  broad,  simple  surfaces  unbroken  by  timber.  The 
architect  is  Miss  Lois  L.  Howe,  of  Boston,  and  the  house  has 
received  a  severe  test  from  New  England  weather  conditions. 

This  house,  as  seen  from  the  plan,  need  not  be  built  all  at 
once.     The  first  construction  could  stop  wdth  the  hall,  and  a 

2  very  livable  home  would  be  secured.  The  two  additional 
rooms  on  each  floor  could  be  added  wiien  more  room  was 
needed.  Porches  are  built  over  the  entrances,  but  a  brick- 
paved  terrace  is  substituted  for  the  customary  lengthy  ve- 
randa. This  terrace  can  be  covered  with  vines  or  an  awning 
in  summer,  and  the  sunshine  will  not  be  shut  out  in  the  winter. 

For  exterior  plastering  the  wrood  framing  is  built  in  the 
usual  manner  and  then  covered  with  metal,  wire,  or  latticed 

3  wood  lath.  (Ref.  3,  p.  1.)  The  careful  treatment  of  the 
plaster  around  window  frames  is  essential.  The  flashing  must 
be  carried  in  behind  the  lathing.  In  half-timber  construction 
a  key  must  be  provided  for  the  mortar  to  prevent  open  joints. 
(Ref.  3,  p.  13.)  For  fireproof  construction  the  reinforced  con- 
crete dwelling  is  less  expensive  than  the  one  made  of  brick  or 
stone.  Metal  meshwork  or  steel  rods  are  used  to  take  all  ten- 
sile stresses,  and  all  compression  is  taken  by  the  concrete. 
(Ref.  4,  p.  647.) 

SHINGLE  HOUSES. 

4  This  house,  the  property  of  Mr.  Spiers,  of  Pasadena,  Cal., 
furnishes  an  interesting  example  of  a  shingle  house  with  a 
gambrel  roof. 

Its  quiet  surfaces  and  long  lines  rest  the  eye.     The  walls  and 
roof  are  covered  by  California  redwood  shingles,  wThich  have 


been  dipped  in  oil  and  thus  given  a  deep  rich  brown.  The  View- 
foundation  and  chimneys  are  of  dark-red  brick.  The  large 
outside  chimney  forms  the  "feature"  of  the  design,  expressing 
as  it  does  the  idea  of  cheerful  open  fires  within.  Although 
designed  for  a  suburban  lot,  it  would  be  even  more  suitable 
for  a  country  site. 

Shingles  make  a  warmer  house  than  siding,  there  being  three 
thicknesses  of  wood  at  all  points,  while  with  wood  siding  there 
is  practically  but  one  thickness.  Wall  shingles  are  applied 
the  same  as  on  roofs,  but  a  greater  exposure  is  permissible. 
They  are  usually  laid  5  or  6  inches  to  the  weather. 

COTTAGES. 

Where  a  cottage  is  desired,  the  lines  should  be  horizontal,  5 

giving  a  low  and  snug  effect.  (Ref.  5,  pp.  1-9.)  The  founda- 
tion and  chimneys  of  this  cottage  are  built  of  field  stone  ham- 
mered off  to  form  beds,  with  exterior  surface  left  rough.  To 
build  a  chimney  of  this  character,  flue  linings  of  vitrified  tile 
should  be  used  to  prevent  flames  penetrating  to  the  woodwork 
in  case  of  loss  of  mortar  from  a  joint  in  the  stonework.  The 
walls  are  of  extra  wide  clapboards,  left  rough,  and  stained  with 
creosote  shingle  stain  before  putting  in  place.  The  roof  is  of 
cedar  shingles  dipped  in  linseed  oil,  to  which  a  small  amount 
of  red  lead  has  been  added,  just  enough  to  give  a  rich  red- 
brown  color  with  age. 

The  plan  formed  of  a  simple  rectangle  gives  the  most  room  6 

for  the  least  expense  of  any  form  of  house.  The  bedroom 
fireplaces  may  be  omitted.  However,  a  fireplace  is  most 
desirable,  as  it  solves  the  problem  of  ventilating  the  room. 
The  hot-water  boiler  is  located  in  the  bathroom,  thus  helping 
to  heat  the  room  as  the  temperature  of  the  water  rises. 

The  interior  finish  is  a  good  grade  of  soft  wood,  painted  in 
kitchen,  bath,  and  bedrooms,  and  stained  elsewhere.  The 
walls  are  of  sand-finished  plaster.  The  windows  are  divided 
into  small  panes  of  glass,  which  keeps  the  whole  in  scale, 
besides  being  a  means  of  economy. 

PLANNING  THE  HOUSE. 

In  selecting  a  design  the  idea  should  be  to  build  a  house 
which  is  suited  to  its  location  and  the  surrounding  country. 
This  house  at  Magnolia,  Mass.,  is  very  attractive  and  home-  7 

like.  It  is  the  kind  of  a  house  that  the  "children's  children" 
will  delight  to  call  "The  Old  Homestead."  The  simple  out- 
line is  not  only  economical;  it  is  dignified  as  well.     The  bed- 


rooms,  although  within  the  roof  space,  arc  amply  ventilated 

by  (I* »niicr  and  gable  windows,  and  lose  very  little  in  height, 
the  pitch  of  the  roof  being  fairly  Bharp. 

Do  not  be  in  too  great  haste  to  begin  to  build.  Take  plenty 
of  time  in  which  to  prepare  the  preliminary  studies  upon  which 
your  working  drawings  are  to  he  made.  The  logical  order  of 
procedure  in  designing  any  building  is  to  first  work  out  the 
ground  plan,  then  the  elevation,  although  the  general  scheme 

8  of  the  building  as  a  whole  must  he  kept  in  mind.  A  sym- 
metrical plan  makes  the  most  comfortable  and  satisfactory 
house.  Those  parts  of  the  house  most  used  or  enjoyed  should 
have  the  pleasant  exposure.  Each  room  should  be  arranged 
to  receive,  conveniently,  its  furniture. 

A  finished  first-floor  level  about  2  feet  8  inches  above  the 
general  finished  grade  will  insure  a  well-lighted  cellar.  The 
cellar  floor  should  he  water-tight  and  the  foundations  well 
drained.      (Ref.  6,  p.  13.) 

Furnaces  appear  to  he  gaining  favor  for  warming  houses  of 
moderate  size.  If  a  good  furnace  of  sufficient  size  is  properly 
located  and  well  put  up  there  will  he  no  cause  for  complaint. 
(Ref.  7,  p.  3S.)     The  hot-air  pipes  should  be  as  short  as  the 

9  location  of  the  registers  will  permit.  The  registers  of  the 
lower  floor  are  often  placed  in  the  floor  for  convenience  in 
piping,  but  the  wall  register  is  the  best  and  should  be  used 
wherever  possible.  The  cold-air  pipe  should  be  amply  large 
and  provided  with  a  damper  near  the  cold-air  window.  This 
cold-air  connection  to  the  furnace  should  always  be  directly 
at  the  rear.  (Ref.  3,  p.  36.)  The  advantage  of  the  furnace 
system  of  heating  is  its  direct  supply  of  fresh  air.  A  combi- 
nation hot-air  and  hot-water  system  which  furnishes  warm  air 
to  a  number  of  rooms  and  direct  radiators  to  others  is  very 
efficient,  but  more  expensive. 

A  hot-water  system  is  similar  in  construction  and  operation 
to  one  designed  for  steam.     Tt  is  regarded  by  many  per- 

10  as  the  best  method  for  heating  residences.  The  water  rises 
from  the  heater  in  the  cellar  to  the  radiators  and  is  returned 
to  the  base  of  the  heater,  the  change  of  temperature  causing 
the  circulation.  The  two-pipe  system  i>  more  economical  of 
fuel,  but  more  expensive  to  install  than  the  overhead  system. 
(Ref.  8,  p.  821.) 

BATHROOMS. 

11  The  minimum  size  for  the  bathroom  is  6  feet  by  S  feet.  An 
eastern  exposure  is  best  and  good  ventilation  should  always  he 
secured.     If  possible   the  floor  should  be  tiled  or  of  cement 


with    coved    base;    the   walls    finished    in    cement  or  hard    View- 
plaster.     Linoleum,  laid  before  the  fixtures  are  set,  makes  an 
economical  and  sanitary  floor  covering. 

The  essential  fixtures  are  tub,  lavatory,  and  water-closet. 
A  good  enameled  iron  tub  and  lavatory  will  last  a  lifetime. 
The  enameled  ware  costs  about  one-half  that  of  porcelain. 
The  best  water-closet  to-day  is  the  siphon  closet.  This  should 
be  of  porcelain.  The  fixtures  shown  in  this  bathroom  would 
cost  about  SI 00. 

PLUMBING. 

The  pipes  that  cany  the  water  over  the  house  and  those 
that  remove  it  with  its  accumulated  waste  are  included  in  the 
plumbing.  The  service  pipe  should  enter  the  cellar  well  below 
the  frost  line.  (Ref.  9.)  The  pressure  which  forces  the  water 
to  the  points  where  it  is  to  be  used  may  be  procured  either  by 
a  pneumatic  or  an  elevated  tank.  If  a  tank  in  the  attic  is  12 
used  a  direct  connection  from  the  supply  pipe  to  the  kitchen 
will  furnish  a  fresher  supply  of  water  for  general  use. 

The  hot-water  system  shown  is  furnished  by  a  boiler  and 
water-back  attachment  to  the  range.  (Ref.  10,  p.  13.)  An 
additional  supply  can  be  secured  by  installing  a  hot-water  coil 
in  the  furnace.  The  crackling  noises  in  the  hot-water  boiler 
and  pipes  are  usually  caused  by  poor  circulation  due  to  the 
sagging  of  the  connection  between  the  water  back  and  boiler, 
or  else  to  overheating  of  the  water  from  lack  of  use.  If  a  hot- 
water  faucet  is  left  open  a  short  time  the  snapping  will  stop. 

PIPES. 

The  service  pipe  is  usually  of  galvanized  iron.  Brass  or 
copper  pipes  are  best  for  the  hot-water  system;  the  waste 
pipes  should  be  of  "extra  heavy"  cast  iron  or  of  galvanized 
wrought  iron.  The  use  of  lead  pipe  should  be  restricted  to 
the  short  branches  of  the  waste  pipes.  The  soil  pipe  should 
run  as  straight  as  possible  and  be  continued  at  least  3  feet 
above  the  roof.  The  main  drain  in  the  cellar  should  be  kept 
above  the  floor.  Each  fixture  must  have  a  separate  connection 
to  the  main  soil  pipe  and  be  provided  with  a  suitable  trap. 
All  pipes  should  be  exposed  to  view  wherever  possible,  as  open 
plumbing  is  cleaner  and  more  sanitary.      (Ref.  11,  p.  27.) 

If  a  septic  tank  is  used  with  an  inlet  pipe  bent  down  below 
the  water  line,  this  forms  a  trap,  and  the  main  trap  shown  just 
inside  the  cellar  walls  should  be  omitted.  A  septic  tank  similar 
to  the  one  shown  has  been  built  for  $23,  including  labor.  (Ref. 
10,  p.  29.) 


KITCHENS. 
PIMP. 

Id  The  kitchen  should  be  light,  sanitary,  and  easily  ventilated. 

Tt  should  be  well  planned  and  supplied  with  up-to-date  fur- 
nishings. It  should  be  compact  without  being  cramped.  Too 
much  room  is  quite  as  undesirable  as  too  little.  (Ref.  12,  p.  4.) 
If  a  coal  range  is  used,  a  gasoline  or  oil  stove  should  be  provided 
for  use  during  the  summer,  or  a  combination  gas  and  coal  range 
can  be  secured.  A  projecting  curved  bood  of  metal  over  the 
range  or  one  built  of  Btudding  and  plastered  on  metal  lath, 
with  a  ventilating  thimble  close  to  the  ceiling  under  the  hood, will 
remove  the  fumes  of  cooking.  The  hot-water  boiler  may  be  set 
on  a  standard  or  hung  in  a  horizontal  position  above  the  range. 
The  sink  should  be  of  enameled  iron  or  porcelain  supported  on 
enameled  iron  brackets  from  the  wall.  It  should  have  no  wooden 
rim  or  inclosure.  The  drain  boards  should  be  of  white  ash, 
with  grooves  and  a  "drip"  cut  under  edges  of  boards.  If  a  tile 
or  cement  floor  is  not  laid  in  the  kitchen,  the  best  substitute  is 
a  white-pine  floor  planed  smooth  and  covered  with  linoleum 
before  the  piping  to  the  sink  is  connected  or  the  molding  of  the 

14  baseboard  set.  A  perfectly  plain  trim  5  inches  wide  with 
edges  rounded  off  is  most  suitable  for  kitchen,  storeroom,  and 
pantry.     The  cupboard  shelves  should  be  given  three  coats  of 

15  white  paint,  and  a  final  coat  of  white  enamel.  A  half-inch 
space  should  be  left  between  shelves  and  wall.  Flour,  sugar, 
and  meal  may  be  kept  in  zinc-lined  tilting  bins,  or  the  counter- 
shelf  can  be  hinged  over  a  space  large  enough  for  the  flour 
barrel  to  be  put  in  on  rollers  or  a  barrel  swing.  (Ref.  3,  p.  31.) 
It  is  more  convenient  to  have  a  storeroom  connected  to  the 
kitchen  than  to  have  a  large  kitchen.  If  the  refrigerator  has 
an  outside  door  through  which  the  ice  chamber  is  filled  in 
warm  weather,  in  winter  this  door  can  be  left  open  to  admit 
the  outer  air  for  cold  storage.  A  Berving  pantry  provides 
space  for  the  table  china  and  helps  keep  the  dining-room  cool 
and  free  from  odors.  The  slide  between  the  dining-room 
sideboard  and  the  pantry  saves  many  steps.  The  lift,  counter- 
weighted  so  that  a  touch  will  set  it  in  motion,  carries  fruit  and 
vegetables  from  the  cellar. 

FURNISHINGS. 

William  Morris  said,  "  Have  nothing  in  your  homes  that  you 
do  not  know  to  be  useful  or  believe  to  be  beautiful."     Most  of 
our  homes  are  overfurnished,  crowded  with  useful  and  us< 
things.     Good  furniture  should  have  simple  lines  and  be  abso- 
lutely free  from  useless  ornamentation.     Modeled  after  Colo- 


9 

nial  or  Mission  style,  plain,  strong,  and  tasteful,  it  will  with-  Viev>- 
stand  the  hardest  wear  and  grow  more  beautiful  with  age. 
Color  is  one  of  the  important  elements  in  the  selection  of  fur- 
nishings. A  room  where  colors  of  rugs,  curtains,  and  walls 
are  inharmonious  is  not  calculated  to  soothe  and  rest  the 
weary.  An  ugly  room  badly  lighted,  poorly  ventilated,  and 
inadequately  heated  lowers  the  level  of  human  life. 

Where  good  pictures  are  not  available,  use  wall  decorations, 
which  render  pictures  unnecessary — e.  g.,  wall  papers  of  good 
design  or  some  stenciled  design  upon  kalsomined  walls.  Where 
pictures  are  used,  let  the  walls  be  plain.  Do  not  use  pictures 
and  flowered  paper  upon  the  same  wall.  An  effective  dining 
room  could  have  a  tapestry  or  colonial  landscape  paper  with 
plain  cream  ceiling  and  white  painted  woodwork;  chairs  and 
table  should  be  plain,  of  oak  or  mahogany.  A  high  narrow 
shelf  running  around  the  room  for  plates  or  one  or  two  hanging 
plate  racks  are  sufficient  decoration.  All  curtains,  covers  to 
sideboard,  serving  table,  and  the  like  should  be  washable. 
For  country  houses  sand-finished  walls,  either  natural  or 
stained  with  good  strong  color,  flat  woodwork  of  yellow  pine,  1 6 
cypress,  or  redwood  stained  and  rubbed,  not  varnished,  hard- 
wood floor  stained  to  harmonize  with  trim,  combine  to  give  a 
dignity  hard  to  obtain  in  any  other  way.  For  interior  finish 
that  is  to  be  painted,  use  white  pine  or  poplar,  free  from  knots 
and  pitch.  For  staining  or  natural  finish,  hard  pine,  redwood, 
ash,  chestnut,  oak,  cherry  or  mahogany,  ranking  in  cost  in 
about  the  order  named,  are  all  desirable. 

The  living  room  of  to-day  is  almost  a  necessity-  in  family  life.        1 7 
With  its  books,  copies  of  good  pictures,  fireplace,  and  com- 
fortable chairs,  it  makes  the  thought  of  home  more  attractive 
and  the  hall  bedroom  of  a  city  boarding  house  less  alluring. 

Bedrooms  should  have  hardwood  floors  with  rugs,  kalso- 
mined or  painted  walls  instead  of  paper,  and  brass  or  iron  beds. 

Hardwood  floors  should  be  stained  and  waxed  or  treated 
with  shellac  and  spar  varnish.  They  cost  very  little  more  than 
a  floor  of  soft  pine  and  require  only  rugs  instead  of  carpet,  thus 
doing  away  with  the  most  objectionable  feature  of  house 
cleaning  as  well  as  being  handsomer  and  more  sanitary. 

Double  floors  should  be  used  wherever  possible — the  under 
floor  of  spruce  or  common  fence  boards.  The  upper  or  finished 
floor  should  not  be  put  in  place  until  the  plastering  is  thor- 
oughly dry  and  the  standing  finish  mostly  in  place.  North 
Carolina  pine  or  birch  floors  are  good  and  cheap,  oak  is  better 
but  more  expensive.  If  only  one  floor  is  used,  it  must  be 
matched  to  prevent  currents  of  air.     (Ref.  8,  p.  314.) 

11837— No.  8—07 2 


10 

FIREPLACES. 

A  fireplace  will  not  Furnish  sufficient  heat  for  a  room  in 
winter  weather,  hut  for  spring  and  autumn  a  grate  fire  is  all  that 

i-  required.     It  Lb  generally  conceded  that  there  i.s  no  better 

means  of  ventilating  a  living  room  than  by  B  grate  fire  and  no 
way  of  making  a  room  more  cheerful.      (Kef.  .;.  p.  121.) 

In  recent  years  brick  fireplaces,  simply  and  honestly  built, 
have  grown  in  popularity.  Brick  can  be  obtained  in  beautiful 
shades  varying  from  delicate  cream  to  deep  bronze.  The  ordi- 
nary paving  brick  in  connection  with  stained  woodwork  gives 
excellent  results.     For  large  living  rooms,  charming  fireplaces 

18  may  be  made  of  field  stone  or  bowlders  with  heavy  wood  shelf 
and  wood  or  stone  brackets.  In  connection  with  interiors  of  a 
more  dainty  or  elegant  character,  molded  woodwork  and  tile 
facing  may  be  used,  or  a  mantle  formed  on  Colonial  lines  with 
marble,  brick,  or  tile  facing,  and  woodwork  painted  white.  In 
place  of  a  mirror  use  a  plaster  cast  or  a  good  Japanese  print  set 
flush  in  a  permanent  frame  formed  of  narrow  flat  strips. 

The  fireplaces  should  be  3  feet  to  3  feet  6  inches  wide  and  2 
feet  6  inches  to  3  feet  high  and  20  to  30  inches  deep.  Cement 
makes  admirable  hearths  and  will  withstand  heat  quite  as  well 
as  tile  or  firebrick.  (Ref.  13,  p.  219.)  A  suitable  color  could 
be  mixed  with  the  cement  and  the  sand  should  have  a  good 
color.  A  smoking  fireplace  is  a  never-ending  source  of  discom- 
fort. The  diagram  showrs  how  the  back  and  throat  should  be 
built;  the  throat  forming  a  long  narrowT  passage  for  the  flames, 
not  more  than  3  or  4  inches  wide.  Two  small  steel  angles  or  a 
cast-iron  lintel  can  be  used  to  support  the  brick  in  front  with 
a  bar  at  the  back  to  hold  the  firebrick  in  place. 

INCLOSED  PORCH  AND  BACK  DOORS. 

An  inclosed  porch  is  the  connecting  link  between  the  house 
and  the  garden.  The  plan  of  the  house  can  be  so  arranged  that 
this  porch  makes  a  convenient  summer  dining  room.     The 

19  planting  of  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines  should  be  such  as  to 
give  it  privacy  and  a  pleasant  outlook.  There  is  no  reason  why 
a  back  yard  should  not  be  a  pleasant  place.    The  part  of  the  yard 

20  in  daily  use  should  be  kept  in  a  sanitary  condition  at  least  and, 
with  proper  attention,  it  can  be  made  very  attractive.     Uncut 

2 1  grass,  decaying  vegetables,  weeds,  and  stagnant  water,  to  breed 
mosquitoes,  are  surely  unnecessary. 


11 


RELATION  OF  HOUSE  TO  SURROUNDINGS. 

The  architectural  treatment  of  the  grounds  is  inseparably  Viev>- 
connected  with  the  architectural  effect  of  the  house.  Every 
place  possesses  certain  advantages  as  to  location,  view,  expo- 
sure, the  character  and  situation  of  the  trees,  and  the  like, 
which  calls  for  a  particular  means  of  emphasizing  its  good 
points  and  of  evading  or  concealing  its  bad  points.  Many  a 
busy  home  maker  has  sighed  over  some  bare  and  ugly  spot 
around  the  otherwise  satisfactory  home  and  wished  for  time 
and  means  to  improve  it.  Here  and  there  is  one  who  sees  what 
is  necessary  to  be  done;  the  ashes  and  tin  cans  are  removed,  the 
ground  spaded,  shrubs,  vines,  flowers,  and  grass  are  assigned  to  22 
their  proper  places,  walks  are  built  of  concrete,  brick,  or  cinders, 
and  the  final  result  is  a  lawn  and  garden  worthy  of  the  names. 
The  garden  should  be  planned  to  open  off  from  the  part  of  the 
house  most  commonly  used  so  as  to  be  but  one  of  the  rooms  into 
which  you  step  out  of  another.  More  use  should  be  made  of 
the  garden.  Apart  from  the  pleasure  of  gathering  and  caring 
for  the  flowers  and  vegetables,  there  is  the  pleasure  of  living  in 
the  open  air. 

The  garden  should  be  inclosed  by  a  hedge  or  a  vine-covered 
fence  and  the  flowers  should  succeed  each  other  according  to       23 
the  season. 

Seats,  which  should  always  be  simply  formed  and  pro- 
tected from  the  weather  by  a  }7early  coat  of  paint  or  varnish, 
may  be  conveniently  placed  for  resting  where  the  outlook  is  24 
most  pleasing.  A  seat  of  barrel  staves  will  be  found  extremely 
comfortable,  the  curves  of  the  wood  adapting  themselves  well 
to  the  body. 

The  paths  bordered  with  flowers  or  low  shrubs  should  lead 
straight  to  the  house,  ending  in  an  arbor  which  will  serve  to       25 
screen  the  kitchen  or  enlarge  the  piazza  and  tie  the  house  to  the 
garden. 

Pump  shelters,  back  porches,  and  entrance  porticoes  may 
be  greatly  improved  in  appearance  by  the  addition  of  vines. 

When  the  house  is  not  supplied  with  a   bathroom   and  a 
privy  is  used,  have  the  walk  leading  to  it  sheltered  from  view 
and  weather  and  the  building  itself  neat  and  well  placed.     If       26 
a  dry-earth  closet  is  used  it  may  be  located  very  near  to  the 
house.     (Ref.  10,  p.  22.) 

GENERAL  PLAN. 

It  is  a  common  error  to  give  little  forethought  to  the  placing 
of  the  buildings  in  their  relation  to  each  other,  to  disregard  the 


ll2 

vuw.      outlook  from  the  house,  and  to  take  do  care  in  tree  planting  or 

27  to  do  no  planting  whatever.  A  complete  and  appropriate  lay- 
out .should  be  the  starting  point,  and  time  spent  in  planning 
an  estate  will  result  in  economy  and  beauty  when  the  place  is 
subsequently  developed.  If  poorly  planned  it  means  a  con- 
tinued process  of  tearing  down  and  reconstructing. 

DAIRY  AND  POWER   HOUSE. 

The  building  in  which  the  milk  is  handled  should  be  entirely 
separate  from  the  one  in  which  the  cows  are  kept,  as  great 
cleanliness  is  essential  in  the  handling  of  milk  and  other  dairy 
products,  nothing  absorbing  impurities   more  readily.      (Ref. 

28  14,  p.  12.)  The  building  should  be  well  ventilated  and  so  con- 
structed as  not  to  be  readily  affected  by  changes  in  tempera- 
ture. The  windows  should  be  so  arranged  that  the  sunshine 
may  be  freely  admitted  at  least  once  a  day.  Provision  should 
be  made  on  the  ground  floor  for  cooling  the  milk  rapid h'  and 
for  the  separator  and  churn,  the  cellar  being  used  for  refriger- 
ation and  storage.  The  floors  and  walls  should  be  of  tile  or 
composite  material,  so  that  a  hose  may  be  turned  upon  them 
and  all  thoroughly  cleaned.  The  cellar  w^alls  may  be  faced  with 
enameled  brick. 

This  power  house  forms  a  part  of  the  same  building  but 

29  entirely  separated  from  the  dairy.  The  transmission  of  power 
to  the  various  machines  of  the  farm  is  accomplished  by 
using  a  dynamo  in  connection  with  the  gasoline  engine,  so  that 
motors  are  located  at  the  various  points  where  powTer  is  desired. 
The  house  and  buildings  may  be  lighted  by  use  of  the  same 
plant.     (Ref.  13,  p.  303.) 

POULTRY  HOUSES. 

A  poultry  house  should  be  isolated  from  other  buildings 
where  practicable,  built  on  dry,  porous  soil,  convenient  of 

30  access,  and  kept  free  from  vermin.  The  house  should  be  warm, 
dry,  and  well  ventilated,  having  foundation  of  concrete,  brick, 
or  field  stone  grouted  with  cement,  extending  below  frost  line. 

A  cheap  and  efficient  house  can  be  made  of  two  thicknesses 
of  rough  inch  lumber  put  on  2  by  4  studs  vertically,  with  tarred 
building  paper  between.  The  inner  layer  of  boards  should 
first  be  put  in  place,  the  tar  paper  placed  on  the  outside  of 
these,  with  well  lapped  joints  held  in  place  by  lath  and  nails, 
then  the  outside  layer,  covering  the  cracks  with  ordinary  lath 
for  battens.  The  air  space  between  the  boards  makes  a  house 
warm  in  winter  and  cool  in  summer.     The  roof  should  be 


13 

sheathed  with  rough  boards  placed  close  together,  covered  View- 
with  tar  paper,  and  shingled.  (Ref.  13,  p.  192.)  A  good 
width  for  a  poultry  house  is  from  10  to  14  feet,  length  as 
required.  The  building  should  face  the  south  and  have  plenty 
of  small,  low  windows,  so  as  to  admit  sunshine  to  the  floor. 
A  ventilator  should  be  placed  on  the  highest  point  of  the  roof, 
with  adjustable  openings,  so  that  the  temperature  of  the  house 
may  be  regulated  in  winter.  Perches  should  be  low,  not  more 
than  30  inches  from  floor,  with  a  smooth,  removable  platform 
underneath  to  facilitate  cleaning.  Drinking  troughs  shoidd 
be  in  the  alley  separated  from  the  house  by  slats.  (Ref.  15, 
pp.  9-18. 

The  posts  for  runways  may  be  12  feet  on  centers.  Common 
rough  boards  may  be  used  for  base,  which  should  be  24  inches 
high,  above  which  2-inch  mesh  poultry  netting  36  inches  wide 
should  be  used,  making  a  5-foot  fence. 

ICE  HOUSE. 

In  building  an  ice  house  the  main  object  is  to  secure  isola- 
tion of  the  ice  by  surrounding  it  with  an  adequate  amount  of 
nonconducting  material.  The  house  should  have  double  walls 
packed  with  sawdust,  a  drain  at  the  bottom  to  carry  off  water 
without  admitting  air,  and  a  ventilator  at  peak  of  roof  to 
allow  vapors  to  pass  out.  There  should  be  no  windows,  and 
the  door  should  be  as  nearly  air  tight  as  possible. 

BARNS. 

A  sanitary  and  conveniently  arranged  barn  costs  but  little 
more  than  one  unsuited  to  animal  life.  The  conditions  gov- 
erning the  planning  are  very  similar  to  those  for  a  house,  i.  e., 
fresh  air,  sunlight,  good  drainage,  and  protection  against  sud- 
den changes  of  temperature.  The  winter  ventilation  can  be 
provided  for  by  one  or  more  flues  so  arranged  as  to  allow  the 
foul  air  to  enter  them  near  the  floor  line  and  to  pass  out  through 
ventilators  on  the  roof,  the  fresh  air  coming  in  near  the 
ceiling.     (Ref.  20,  p.  29.) 

Within  the  last  few  years  a  number  of  very  sanitary  barns 
have  been  built  of  reinforced  concrete.  This  material  is  proof 
against  fire,  water,  and  vermin,  needs  no  painting,  little  repair- 
ing, and  is  cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter.  View  31  31 
shows  a  group  of  concrete  barns  on  a  large  stock  farm  near 
White  Plains,  N.  Y.  The  barns  have  been  designed  and 
built  to  obtain  the  best  possible  results  with  the  least  expendi- 
ture of  labor  in  the  handling  of  the  stock.     The  cow  stables 


14 

(the  end  of  one  is  shown  at  the  right  of  the  picture)  have  walls, 

floors,  and  curved  roof  of  concrete.  The  walls  are  hollow,  and 
in  them  is  Installed  the  "King  system  of  ventilation."     Each 

wing  is  arranged  for  forty  cows.  The  Uh^\  troughs  arc  cast  in 
concrete,  with  a  water  inlet  at  one  end  and  outlet  at  the  other, 
so  thai  they  may  he  easily  flushed  oat.  The  stalls  are  made 
of  1',-inch  galvanized  pipe  and  fittings  benl  to  shape  and 
anchored  in  the  concrete.  The  cows  are  fastened  from  each 
side  by  chains  to  a  leather  collar.  The  windows  swing  on 
their  lower  v-A^o<,  and  open  into  iron  cheeks.  Tracks  hung 
from  the  roof  on  either  side  behind  the  stalls  are  used  for  the 
manure  carriers  which  run  through  the  end  doors  and  dump 
into  carts.  Modern  sanitation  requires  that  the  cows  he  kept 
apart  from  the  feed  and  the  manure  apart  from  the  cows. 
The  concrete  roofs  are  covered  with  a  tar  felt,  washed  over 
with  tar  and  covered  with  slag,  to  make  them  water-tight. 
In  the  floors  a  layer  of  felt  and  tar  was  placed  for  a  damp 
course.  The  feed  room  and  grain  storage  room  are  at  the 
junction  of  the  two  wings  and  the  hay  barn  connects  with 
these.  The  ha}*  barn,  feed  rooms,  and  silos  have  concrete 
walls  and  shingle  roofs.  The  silos  have  proved  perfectly  sat- 
isfactory.    Another  example  of  reinforced  concrete  construc- 

32  tion  is  the  stable  built  for  Dr.  N.  B.  Van  Etten,  of  Xew  York 
City.  The  walls,  floors,  and  roof  are  no  thicker  than  required 
when  of  wood,  but  are  fireproof,  and  moisture  does  not  collect 
on  the  inside  of  the  walls,  although  no  air  space  was  left.  Any 
part  of  the  stable  can  be  cleaned  by  turning  on  water  with  a 
hose. 

Concrete  is  made  of  cement,  sand,  and  broken  stone,  gravel, 
or  washed  cinders.     (Ref.  16,  pp.   1-0.)     Wooden  forms  are 

33  constructed,  and  the  cement  filled  into  the  spaces  required.    As 

34  the  work  progresses  the  lower  courses  become  set  and  the  lum- 
ber of  the  forms  can  be  removed  and  used  over  again.  (Ref.  14, 
p.  219.)  The  work  must  be  carried  on  carefully  and  intelli- 
gently, but  it  is  not  a  difficult  form  of  construction.  The  suc- 
cess of  the  building  depends  upon  the  faithfulness  and  care  of 
the  workmen.  After  the  forms  have  been  removed  the  surface 
can  be  given  a  mortar  facing,  it  can  be  tooled  to  remove  the 
outer  skin  of  mortar  in  which  the  form  marks  exist,  or  it  can  be 
washed  with  an  acid  preparation  to  remove  the  cement  and 
expose  the  particles  of  sand  and  stone,  then  with  an  alkaline 
solution  to  remove  all  free  acid,  finally  giving  it  a  thorough 
cleansing  with  water.  (Ref.  17.  pp.  G5,  99.)  A  pebble-dash 
surface  can  be  secured  by  using  large  rounded  pebbles  in  the 
concrete  and  when  the  forms  are  removed  brushing  the  cement 


15 

and  sand  from  around  the  face  of  the  gravel  with  steel  brushes,    View- 
leaving    about    half  of    the  pebbles  exposed.      After    about 
twenty-four  hours  the  brushing  can  be  carried  on  most  suc- 
cessfully.    (Ref.  18,  p.  643.) 

In  planning  the  barn,  provision  should  be  made  for  growth 
of  both  crops  and  animals.  This  can  be  accomplished  either 
by  building  for  the  future  or  by  so  arranging  the  plan  that  an 
additional  bay  can  be  added  with  little  change  in  the  present 
building.  Greater  comfort  and  better  results  will  be  obtained 
from  barns  not  over  35  feet  wide  than  if  built  wider.  If  these 
are  arranged  to  partly  surround  a  court  open  to  the  south  they 
will  prove  very  satisfactory. 

The  barn  should  be  built  to  store  abundance  of  provender; 
hence  the  mow  should  be  without  crossties  through  the  middle 
to  obstruct  the  hay  fork,  the  trusses  being  placed  about  16  feet 
on  centers.  It  is  often  found  convenient  to  have  a  barn  for  35 
hay  with  the  stock  barns  grouped  around  it.  The  practice  of 
scattering  buildings  over  the  farm  has  been  found  more  incon- 
venient and  expensive  than  to  group  them  near  each  other,  as 
all  the  buildings  are  more  or  less  dependent.  Scattered  build-  36 
mgs  add  much  to  the  labor  of  doing  the  work. 

The  foundations  should  extend  well  below  frost  line,  the 
basement  posts  resting  directly  upon  the  foundation  piers 
without  wood  sills  at  the  grade  line.  The  floors  of  all  barns  37 
and  sheds  should  be  dry  and  well  drained.  The  best  and  most 
economical  floor  for  a  dairy  barn  is  of  concrete.  The  ground 
floor  should  be  raised  enough  to  give  a  good  fall  in  all  directions 
from  the  barn.  In  the  construction  of  stables  for  live  stock,  38 
especially  milch  cows,  the  ventilation  must  be  proportioned 
to  the  number  of  animals;  500  cubic  feet  of  air  space  per  head 
is  the  least  amount  allowed  in  good  designing.  The  stalls 
should  have  a  slope  toward  the  gutter  of  about  2  inches  in  5 
feet.     The  fall  of  the  gutter  should  be  about  1  inch  in  20  feet. 

An  example  of  good  planning  is  shown  in  "  Three  Rivers  39 
Farm,"  the  home  of  Mr.  E.  W.  Rollins,  near  Dover,  N.  H.  An 
arbor  extends  from  house  to  barn  and  the  garden  lies  at  one 
side  of  this  arbor.  The  native  trees  have  been  used  to  give 
shade  and  shelter,  but  are  not  allowed  to  cut  off  the  beautiful 
outlook  over  the  hills  and  river.  The  barns  form  three  sides  of 
a  court,  a  convenient  and  labor-saving  arrangement.  The 
location  is  exceptional,  but  the  neatness  of  the  yards  and 
buildings  need  not  be  so. 

The  Iowa  farm  shown  in  the  next  view  was  started  a  hun-       40 
dred  years  or  so  later  than  the  preceding,  and  the  details  have 
not   been   so   well   looked    after.     The   buildings    have   been 


16 

dropped  down  on  the  yard  with  little  thought  for  convenience. 
The  tree  planting  is  excellent,  hut  no  one  has  taken  the  time  to 
plant  the  vines  and  shrubs  needed  to  soften  the  outlines  and  to 
separate  the  hams  from  the  house. 

HOG  HOUSES. 

-1  I  Houses  built  for  the  keeping  or  breeding  of  swine  should  he 

easily  cleaned,  well  lighted,  and  well  ventilated,  with  separate 
feeding  floors  and  sleeping  quarters.  The  feeding  floor,  located 
in  full  sunlight,  should  he  of  concrete,  12  feet  wide  and  as  long 
as  required,  slightly  sloping,  about  '  inch  in  12  inches,  to  a  gutter 

on  one  side.  The  feeding  trough  may  be  formed  of  concrete. 
and  should  extend  along  one  side  and  he  protected  by  a  swing- 
ing fence  from  the  hogs  while  being  cleaned  or  filled.  For  the 
sleeping  quarters,  the  "Ring  system  of  ventilation"'  is  excel- 

42  lent.  (Kef.  20,  p.  29.)  The  pens,  walls,  and  floor  may  be  of 
concrete,  with  iron  doors,  so  that  all  may  he  kept  clean.  The 
runs  may  be  separated"  by  wire  fences  and  should  have  a  shal- 
low concrete  basin  at  one  end,  where  the  hogs  may  lie  in  water 
in  the  hot  weather. 

FENCES. 

A  irood  fence  carefully  built  will  add  much  to  the  appearance 
of  a  farm.     Wooden  fence  posts  are  becoming  more  expeii 
and  cement  or  iron  posts  are  often  substituted.     The  cement 
posts  may  be  made  on  the  farm  if  sand  and  gravel  can  he  easily 

43  obtained.  (Ref.  13,  p.  213.)  The  casting  of  ornamental 
shapes  in  concrete  may  be  accomplished  by  the  use  of  sand, 
wood  or  plaster  of  Paris  molds.  The  concrete  fence  at  the 
Gedney  Farm  had  the  posts  cast  in  position,  with  grooves  on 
e;ich  side,  into  which  the  rails  were  dropped  and  the  grooves 

44  filled  with  concrete.     The  rails,  4  by  9  inches  and   about    16 
feet  long,  were  cast  in  separate  forms  and  put  in  place  after  the 
concrete  had  thoroughly  set.     They  have  a  '.-inch  reinfon 
rod  in  each  corner  with  1-inch  stirrups  every  2  feet  of  length. 

REMODELED  HOUSES. 

The  farm  shown  in  this  view  had  been  "running  down"  for 
a  generation  before  taken  by  the  present  occupants.  There 
were  no  trees  near  the  house,  but   brambles  and  weeds   grew 

45  everywhere.     The  untidy  outbuildings  were  located  on  a  steep 
hillside  covered  with  stones  and  bushes.     The  rickety  feE 
and  general  air  o(  untidiness  are  typical  of  a  certain  class  of 
farms. 


17 

The  first  improvement  made  was  to  clear  out  the  weeds  and  View- 
thickets,  fill  the  hollows,  rebuild  the  stone  walls,  add  a  layer  of 
good  soil,  and  seed.  It  was  then  possible  to  go  all  about  the 
buildings.  The  apple  trees  being  pruned  and  cared  for,  took 
on  new  beauties.  Lombardy  poplars  were  planted  because 
they  are  fast-growing  trees.  The  elms  and  maples  were  trans- 
planted while  still  small  trees,  and  after  five  years  made  quite  a  46 
showing.  The  flower  beds  are  massed  near  the  house;  the 
plants  against  the  old  brick  walls  seem  to  make  the  house  less 
obtrusive  and  more  a  part  of  the  landscape.  The  new  shed  and 
terrace,  although  not  exactly  in  keeping  with  the  old  house,  are 
well  built,  the  terrace  making  an  excellent  outdoor  living  room 
when  covered  with  vines.      (Ref.  19,  p.  13.) 

This  house  was  not  chosen  because  of  its  architectural  excel- 
lence, but  to  show  that  no  matter  how  unpromising  a  house 
may  be  it  is  possible  to  convert  it  into  a  comfortable  home. 
The  well-kept  drive  and  lawn  give  the  place  a  prosperous  look,  47 
while  the  two-storied  porch  means  solid  comfort  in  summer  48 
weather  when  inclosed  with  screens  and  utilized  as  dining  and 
sleeping  rooms.  The  arrangement  of  the  vines  in  front  of  the 
house  is  very  unfortunate,  shutting  off  the  view  from  the  win- 
dows, as  they  apparently  do.  Grown  upon  a  trellis  against  the 
corner  of  the  house  or  with  the  rocks  as  a  background  they 
would  be  excellent. 

To  improve  the  existing  conditions  upon  a  farm,  development 
of  additional  resources  are  often  unnecessary;  much  may  be 
accomplished  by  a  different  disposition  of  materials  already 
at  hand. 


APPENDIX. 


IjAXTKRN    SLIDES. 


No.  of 
view. 

1.  Plaster  house. 

2,  Plan  for  plaster  house. 

<  Original  drawing. 

.'$.     Details  of  plaster  construction. 

Original  drawing. 

4.  Shingle  house. 

5.  Cottage. 

Original  <1  rawing. 

6.  Plan  for  cottage. 

Original  drawing. 

7.  House  at  Magnolia,  Mass. 

8.  Plan  for  Magnolia  house. 

Original  drawing. 

9.  Furnace  layout  for  Magnolia  house. 

Original  drawing. 

10.  Systems  of  hot-water  heating. 

Original  drawing. 

11.  Bathroom. 

12.  Piping  for  hot  and  cold  water  circu- 

lation. 
Original  drawing. 

13.  Plan  and    details  of  kitchen  and 

bathroom. 

Original  drawing. 

14.  Kitchen    and    gasoline   stove   and 

heater. 

15.  Kitchen  with  range  and  water  back. 

16.  Dining  room. 

17.  Living  room. 

18.  Designs  for  fireplaces. 

Original  drawing. 

19.  Inclosed  porch. 

Original  photograph. 

20.  Back  yard  as  it  should  not  be. 

Original  photograph. 

21.  Back  yard  as  it  should  be. 

22.  Summer  house. 

23.  Garden  fence. 

Original  drawing. 

24.  Pump  shelter,  portico,  and  seats. 

Original  drawing. 

25.  Rustic  arbor. 


No.  of 
view. 

20. 


27. 

28. 
29. 

30. 

31. 

32. 

33. 


34. 

35. 

36. 
37. 

38. 

39. 

40. 
41. 
42. 

43. 

44. 


45. 
46. 

47. 

48. 


Arbors  and  dry-earth  closets. 
Original  drawing. 

General  plan  of  grounds. 

Original  drawing. 

Dairy  and  power-house  building. 

Plan  of  dairy  and  power  h 

Original  drawing. 
Chicken  and  ice  houses. 

Original  drawing. 
Group  of  concrete  barns. 

Original  photograph. 

<  Concrete  stable. 

Original  photograph. 
Reinforced    concrete    building    in 
process  of  erection. 
Original  photograph. 

Construction  of  forms  for  concrete- 
building. 
Barn  sections. 
Original  drawing. 

Stock  and  hay  barn. 

Plan  of  barn  with  open  court. 
Original  drawing. 

General  plan  of  barns. 

Original  drawing. 

General    view  of     "Three   Rivers 

Farm,"  Dover.  X.  H. 
General  view  of  an  Iowa  farm. 
Frame  hog  house  exterior. 

Interior  of  concrete  hog  house. 
Original  photograph. 

Designs  for  fences  and  gates. 

Original  drawing. 
Concrete  fence  on    Gedney   Farm, 
White  Plains,  N.  Y. 

Original  photograph. 

New  England  farmhouse. 

New  England  farmhouse  remod- 
eled. 

House  at  Manchester,  Mass. 

Remodeled  house  at  Manchester, 
Masai 


(18) 


REFERENCES. 

'  1.  American  Domestic  Architecture.     By  Stevens  &  Cobb.     New  York. 

2.  Architectural  Review,  Vol.  13,  No.  4.     Boston,  Mass. 

3.  Architectural  Review,  Vol.  14,  No.  1.    Boston,  Mass. 

4.  Country  Life  In  America,  October,  1906.     New  York. 

5.  The  Model  Village  and  Its  Cottages,  Bournville.     By  W.  Alexander  Harvey. 

London. 

6.  Sanitation  of  a  Country  House.     By  Harvey  B.  Bashore.     New  York. 

7.  Furnace  Heating.     By  William  G.  Snow.     New  York. 

8.  Kidder's  Architectural  Hand  Book. 

9.  Modern  Plumbing.     Illustrated.     By  R.  M.  Starbuck.     New  York. 

10.  Modern  Conveniences  for  the  Farm  Home.     U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  Farmers'  Bui.  270. 

11.  Sanitary  Drainage  of  Buildings.     By  Wm.  Paul  Gerhard.     New  York. 

12.  The  Healthful  Farmhouse.     By  Helen  Dodd.     Boston. 

13.  Farm  Buildings.     Chicago. 

14.  Dairying  in  the  South.     U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  Farmers'  Bui.  151. 

15.  Poultry  Management.     U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  Farmers'  Bui.  287. 

16.  Cement  Mortar  and  Concrete.     U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  Farmers'  Bui.  235. 

17.  Treatment  of  Concrete  Surfaces.  .  By  Linn  White.     1907. 

18.  Practical  Hints  for  Concrete  Construction.     1907. 

19.  A  Remodeled  Farmhouse.     Chicago. 

20.  Ventilation  of  Stables.     U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  Farmers'  Bui.  190. 

Some  other  books  upon  farm  architecture. 

The  Country  House.     By  Chas.  E.  Hooper.     New  York. 

Clark's  Care  of  the  House.     New  York. 

Powell's  The  Country  Home.     New  York. 

Roberts'  The  Farmstead.     New  York. 

House  and  Garden.     By  H.  M.  Bailie  Scott.     London. 

Price  &  Johnson's  Home  Building  and  Furnishing.     New  York. 

Barn  Plans  and  Outbuildings.     New  York. 

Modern  House  Plans.     By  S.  B.  Reed.     New  York. 

Steam  Heating  and  Ventilation.     By  WTm.  S.  Monroe.     New  York. 

Modern  Plumbing,  Steam  and  Hot  Water  Heating.     By  J.  J.  Lawler.     New  York. 

The  Disposal  of  Household  Wastes.     By  Wm.  Paul  Gerhard.     New  York. 

American  Gardens.     By  Guy  Lowell.     Boston. 

Parson's  How  to  Plant  the  Home  Grounds.     New  York. 

Loring  &  Underwood's  The  Garden  and  Its  Accessories. 

Home  Sanitation.     By  the  Sanitary  Science  Club.     Boston. 

(19) 

o 


